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Countryside Guides: Szentendre

Just 19 kilometers north of Budapest, Szentendre`s previous incarnations as an 18th century Balkan enclave and a 20th century artists` colony have given it a quirky baroque-meets-bohemian character.

The Romans first settled this little neck of the Danube, but by medieval times, Christian Magyars had built a hilltop village here and dedicated it to Saint Andrew, from where its current name derives. In 1690, during the Turkish onslaught in the Balkans, Serb and Dalmatian refugees settled here, building the Orthodox churches and Mediterranean-style houses that provide a jarring contrast to most Hungarian towns. In the late 19th century, the town`s long prosperity as a center of wine production was brought to an end by floods and a vine pest, and many of its Balkan inhabitants returned to their native lands.

Szentendre`s rebirth began in 1928 when eight artists looking to set up a colony happened upon the charming, if neglected, town. For the most part of the 20th century, almost every Hungarian artist of note was associated with Szentendre and the town is still home to over 100 working artists. To sample the contemporary scene, tune in to The Art Mill, Gallery Erdész or the Art-Éria Galéria, all of which are centrally located. The gallery tour organized by the local tourist office is also recommended and includes, amongst others, the delightful Ferenczy Museum and the visionary surrealism of the Amos Imre-Anna Margit Collection. Equally, no visit to Szentendre would be complete without dropping into The Orthodox Belgrade Cathedral and Ecclesiastical Museum. If you have some more time to spare you might consider heading outside town a little to visit the The Hungarian Open Air Museum (Skanzen).

From the center of the town in Fo tér (Main Square), a cobbled triangle with a centerpiece `Plague Monument,` alleyways and paths unfurl every which way. Through the tiny archway in the corner wall opposite the church and on find a stall selling lángos (deep fried dough topped with sour cream, cheese and other rich toppings), said to be Hungary`s best. Further uphill along this path are the grounds of the St. John the Baptist Catholic Church and a panorama of undulating red rooftops. Here you can also browse the craft stalls set up to aid the restoration of the church.

Cheesy, but sweet: Among the food-related attraction are the gleefully cluttered Rab Ráby restaurant, and the Szabó Marzipan Museum, which features a life-size marzipan statue of Michael Jackson

Just off Fo tér, Bodgányi utca is a peddler`s parade that offers a microcosm of all the souvenirs available in Budapest markets. Embroidered tablecloths are hung the length of the street, and you will find the whole gamut of chess sets, babushka dolls, glassware, tableware, and paprika. Also running off Fo tér is Dumatsi Jeno utca, one of the town`s two main streets, which contains Lola`s Ice Cream Parlor with its unmissable elderflower (bodza) ice cream. Further down on the left is Számos Marzipan, the place for coffee and cake, which is linked to the deliciously kitsch Szabó Marzipan Museum.

Further up the food chain, Rab Ráby, named after a local folk hero, is a Szentendre institution. A clutter of `olde` junk hangs from every nook and cranny and there is a fully functioning Herend coffee maker on the counter. The food on offer is heavy, hearty Hungarian fare with an emphasis on fish, but make this the place where you sample gulyás. When locals really want to treat themselves, they go to the Promenade. Its stab at elegant interiors may fall short of the standards set in Budapest, but you appreciate the intention and their respectable cuisine offers a more refined and pricey take on local specialties. Besides, in fine weather you want to be outside and their raised terrace has a great river view. Also drop into Café Rodin, on the edge of the town, a minimalist affair surrounded by a sculpture garden - you`ll soon be assured of the town`s artistic credibility. With the ad-hoc feel of a student bar Bohémia is a favorite haunt of local artists and the garrulous owner, Feri bácsi (Uncle Frank), has made it a haven for his eclectic collection of old media contraptions, including the first ever Hungarian TV. Feri occasionally shows movies on an old cinema screen, and when he invites politicians to hold clinics there too, they come.

Sue Healy
www.caboodle.hu - 14 August 2006