Be prepared to lose the tie

The leading theory states that the Huns were a Mongolian tribe forced into westward migration by the Han Chinese Empire, sometime during the third century.

They made it to Europe some 200 years later, Hun bows at arms, dodging the enemy by sliding upside-down around their horse`s bellies, and shooting from the hip (the horse`s hip, that is). Another theory states the Huns were Turkish, but let`s ignore that for now.

One thing is certain; 30% of the population of greater Mongolia is nomadic to this day, and that old Hun bow still flies. Other things I know for sure about Mongolia: like Hungary, it was once a vast empire. The Mongolian bow is considered hard proof that Attila the Hun was a Mongol, as the bright paintings along the walls of the Mongolian Barbecue depict. Other things Hungary has in common with Mongolia are high cheek-bones, funny spiked hats, a tumultuous history embittered by constant invasion, many decades spent under a Communist regime, `landlocked-ness`, and a national cuisine centered around meat.

Found on Márvány utca, just off Alkotás út, in a spacious, pagoda-like structure, is one of Budapest`s most unique restaurants. I heard about the Mongolian Barbecue from a friend who praised it as a `truly authentic` experience and `an admirable attempt to illustrate the roots of Hungarian culture through the senses.` [My friend really does speak like this]

Kind of like a field-trip to the museum where the cafeteria food is actually good, and since lunch is all -you-can-eat for just under Ft3,000 (Ft5,000 for dinner and at weekends), I was planning on spending some quality time there.

I made reservations as the place is always packed, thanks to its fair prices and family-style dining that allows quality and quantity to be in no way mutually exclusive. On entering, no one there looked remotely Mongolian, and most of the customers weren`t even Hungarian, but everyone seemed really cheerful and satisfied.

The courtyard is pleasant seating, as long as the weather allows, but there are plenty of places to choose from, with four carved wood paneled dining rooms, the coziest of which is, naturally, the smoking section. The menu contains carefully detailed directions of what to expect (sorry, no funny translations here). The prix-fix includes a series of hot and cold appetizers, soup, and dessert, all of which you are entitle to taste, and in any order you desire.

Tasting them all

I tasted all of them, and they are just right; the smoked goose breast and Chicken ragout soup Ulan Bator are downright Mongolific. Rauch fruit juices, soft-drinks, Szentkirályi mineral water, Dreher, Tuborg, house wines from Eger and delicious coffee are also included.

Our friendly and attentive waitress laid a basket of fresh-baked onion and tomato rolls on the table with a word of caution: don`t fill up on these, the hunt is yet to begin. A fifth room is stacked with a generous selection of marinated raw meats and vegetables that are just calling out for you to sweep them onto your plate. Unless you choose the carpaccio, it is extremely important that you pass your game to the chef waiting across the open plan kitchen counter; that is, if you`d like to keep your tie: a `Mongarian` ritual includes cutting off the tie of any male who forgets to have his meat cooked. And so you don`t forget, hanging on the wall along with a photograph of the victims, are the remains of their ties.

Hand the chef a few tiny speckled quail eggs, and he`ll put those on the grill too. This is a great opportunity to test your carnivorous tooth on choice cuts of everything from shark to African Pike Perch, through lamb köfte (a Turkish traitor among us?), Scottish beef with whiskey (I give up), through - get this - Horse a la Ghengis kan! Quite barbaric, if you ask me, but all in good taste.

Tiramisu, assorted ice-cream, Rafaello, floating Island and cottage cheese dumplings are offered for dessert. When I asked Ági to bring me the most typically Mongolian choice, she looked surprised.

`You know,` she said confidentially, `We`re not exactly a typical Mongolian restaurant.` I told her I was beginning to suspect that much myself, but the food is good nevertheless. You`re also encouraged to take your laptop along, as wireless connection is provided, and you`ll never feel like you`ve outstayed your welcome.



Mongolian Barbecue Restaurant

Buda, District XII, Márvány utca 19/a.

Tel: 212-1859, Tel/fax: 356-6363

Open: noon-midnight

Quality of food ****

Service *****

Value for money ****

Atmosphere ****



Lili Bordán
www.budapestsun.com - Wednesday, April 18, 2007