A taste of Andalusia

Andalusian cuisine has invaded the Culinaris gastronomy club, this past week, with chef Martin Goldmann, who hails from the region.

Andalusian cookery is rather varied, corresponding to a region that is itself extensive, characterized by gazpacho, fried fish (often called pescaíto frito in the local vernacular), the jamones (cured ham) of Jabugo and Trevélez, and the wines of Jerez, particularly sherry. “The splendid Andalusian culinary variety was the perfect subject for a gastronomy club,” said Botond Boldizsár Bíró, co-owner of Culinaris (and who was once a printer, but eventually turned to food some five years ago, allowing himself to live for his hobby). The food is often covered in flour a la andalucia (meaning only flour, without any eggs or other ingredients, although it may be made from chickpea, especially for use in batters). It is then fried in a large quantity of hot olive oil. Culinaris set about creating a singular menu consisting of six courses, starting off with a mussel Pipirranta salad embrued in wine and jerez vinegar and, my favorite, a Malagan Ajo Blanco soup with apples. The soup had two dominant tastes, the sweet flavor of apples and the intense pungent zest of the garlic that mellowed and sweetened the soup considerably. Guests were showcased some of the diverse foods of Andalusia, having the opportunity to test multiple fish (including pickled mackerel with Jerez vinegar and cod with spinach and chickpeas), and finally, spicy lamb with potatoes seasoned with mint and dried plums. The mode of Culinaris is to test and explore the tastes of the world. Gastronomy classes are held three times a week, delving into the wonders of a different country each time. Upcoming cooking courses in March will explore France, vegetarian gastronomy, and a seafood cooking course. The cost each time is Ft8,999, which includes a six course meal with some fine wine. The chefs are always invited in from abroad and speak good English. The club itself is spacious and well equipped. While the chef instructs and cooks, the guests surround him and take an active role in the culinary wonder making. The events are very interactive and you can smell, touch, ask, participate and even take pictures. “Really, the aim is to educate and pleasure your tastebuds equally; this is how we want to serve the community,” says Biro. Participants are welcome to chat away between courses and savor their wine, provided by Culinaris, and especially chosen to match the feast.

Sweet fritter

The banquet’s crowning moment is always the dessert. Here, a typical Andalusian pastry was served: Pestiños de Miel is a honey-coated sweet fritter heavily influenced by medieval Andalusian cuisine. Deep-fried pastry is bathed in honey, alfajores, and amarguillos (a form of almond macaroons). All of the products and groceries come straight from the shelves of Culinaris’ exclusive store, in the same venue on Perc utca. “We exclusively carry high quality goods with a wide spectrum, and we’ve expanded opening up a store on Hunyadi tér,” Biro says. “Wide” is just the right adjective: it has more than 30 types of butter, plus a wide range of delicacies such as international cheeses and chocolates, exclusive wines, fine breads, olive oil, rice, and authentic tequila, many of which you might be able to find here only in Budapest.

Culinaris
Perc utca 8, Buda, District III.
Tel: 30/234 4686
www.culinaris.hu

Zsuzsa Lukács
www.budapestsun.com - Wednesday, March 12, 2008